#SaveLugana – the collection

Magnus Reuterdahl:

The #winelover and DWCC campaign continues and we still want your signature on this petition:

https://www.change.org/p/matteo-renzi-prime-minister-of-italy-please-save-lugana

Now we’ve had some amazing contributions and posts, here are a few of them and if you know of more please let me know so I can add them.

As I said I probably missed a few (I know I haven’t included the those written in Italian) – please let me know and I’ll add them!

Keep signing #SaveLugana

Magnus Reuterdahl

Originally posted on Magnus Reuterdahls vinblogg (Aqua Vitae):

On this blog I normally post in Swedish, but this is an international posting – I post this as part of the #winelover community, as a #winelover ambassador. Help us save Lugana!

I want to start by saying that I have nothing against railroads or the expansion of railways. On the contrary, I think they should be expanded in order to reduce car and air traffic.

Lugana2

Having said this, I do not think you can sacrifice everything for this purpose, if the expansion instead destroys other natural or social values, one has to ask what is the most important. In this case, for me – it’s easy!

At the moment Italy plans to expand a portion of it’s railway network. In doing so they will destroy parts of a unique wine region. It is unique due to it’s size and placement. That is, one can not replace the area by just…

View original 453 more words

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Cuvée Guy de Poix 2011 from Terra Romana

A few weeks ago I met Razvan Stoenescu in Chateauneuf-du-Pape on a press trip for the DWCC. He’s from Romania and brought a few wines from home. One of these was Cuvée Guy de Poix 2011 from Terra Romana made on the grape Feteasca Neagra, (the Black Maiden in English).

Razvan Stoenescu in Ch9dP (2)

It’s alway fun to taste wines made on grapes that I haven’t before, I also like tasting wines from countries and regions that are not all that known to me – I’ve had a few from Romainia but not many – so when Razvan asked if I was interested to taste this wine I said of course – took my glas and said fill it up!

This is one of the great things with DWCC and also with the #winelover community. You meet people online or on the conference, you build a connection that continues and when you meet up for the first time or again you just pick up that connection. You also get a chance to taste lots and lots of fantastic wines and Cuvée Guy de Poix 2011 is both good and really interesting.

Count Guy Tyrel de Poix passed away in early 2011, He started to grow and make wine in Romaina in the early 90’s and created the brand Vinul Cavalerului in 1994. The range of products has since become wider, among the newer ones is the Terra Romana brand.

Terra Romana Cuvée Guy de Poix (600x398)

The Cuvée Guy de Poix is a homage to the count. It is filled with dark fruits, black currant, prunes and dark cherries but also some red fruits. There is a balsamic touch and herbs such as cloves and a hint of anise. In the finish there are some black peppers and some bitter notes of cherry seeds and cacao seeds. It is a really good wine, with good structure, nice acidity, soft tannins and a warm lingering tone. It is elegant and complex and should age very well – but is also good right now. This should be very good with a nice wild game stew.

I tasted this during a dinner with several other wines and the descriptions is based on a few scrabbled notes, so it would be nice to taste it again. That said, wines that do catch my interest tend to linger on in my mind and this do. And it has left a positive memory for this and other Romainian wines.

Big thanks to Razvan for bringing it – he as well as the wine are good ambassadors for the wines of Romania.

Magnus Reuterdahl

Categories: red wine, Romania, wine, wine blog | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Barolo boys – the movie!

A Swedish version of the review is availabe at Magnus Reuterdahls vinblogg Aqua Vitae.

I have had the opportunity to see an advance copy of the film Barolo Boys – The Story of a Revolution. Here are a few words on the movie, on Barolo, on a modern winemaking era!

BaroloBoys_cover_ITA

If you do not know the Barolo Boys, they were a group of young winemakers in Barolo in the 1980s and 90s. Despite the name, it was not just the boys in the group it included one girl as well. Another important part of the group was an american; Marco di Grazia. The addition boys come from that they were young, and the majority of them were just boys.

This is the story about them and the Piedmont in change, a change that is still going on but perhaps not gone in the direction they expected when the revolution started. Barolo Boys changed and reinventetd Barolo. They went from poor farmers to winemakers with rock star status. They went from anonymity to fame.

They broke up the traditional and created something new, they brought in outside influences and changes in how they worked both in the vineyard and in the winery. They started from fresch, from scratch and this created conflicts between generations, in some cases as far as fathers and sons broke completely with each other. Others just didn’t understand and viewed them as crazy.

It all started in the early 1980s, a time of optimism in Italy, supported by an economic boom and that it has won the Soccer World Cup in 1982. This optimism was also found among the winemakers. The young winemakers started to experiment, collaborate and fundamentally change Barolo wines and its character – at least for a while. The change also caught international attention through among other things tours to the United States. Soon they got soaring ratings of known wine writers, they got hyped at restaurants and became the name on everyone’s lips, which culminated with the Barolo and Barbaressco score a 100-point vintage in Wine Advocate in 2000.

The success in the 1990s led to a willingness to go even further, leading to more experimenting and a strive of making the perfect wine. Some went over to using more new barrels, making wines that were more suited to American tastes and the wine writer’s palette. Did they go too far from the origin?

Many felt that way – it was something of a war between traditionalists and modernists in Barolo. In the end it is a matter of taste, but it feels like it like that 100-point vintage was one of the turning points when you loook back. Many took a half step backwards and started to look for the traditional again. There is also a new generation of young winemakers who will and have begun to make their mark on the wines – wanting to go there way.

One can see it the modern Barolo as a bubble. Personally I’m not a big fan of the style but I think there are lot of positive that came out of this period and its this experimentation. This has led to the that the wines are much cleaner and fresher today and at the same time more accessible as young though still with good ageing potential. The wineries are more modern so there are better possibilites to do good wines, there is more money in the region which also is an enabler for working with quality.

This movie is a good starting point to understanding Barolo and its development but also to understand where Barolo is going, what is to come. However, it is not a film that only illuminates what happened in the “modern Barolo” but it can be translated into what happened in the “modern Rioja”, the “modern Bordeaux” and so forth – what is sometimes called the Parkerfying of wine. It describes an era in the wine industry that can be found in many places and the movie provides a key in understanding this.

This is a really good and interesting movie for all those interested in wine and winemaking. So sit down, pour a glass of good Barolo and take in what the Barolo boys learned and take part of their heritage, of images of the past and the present, and glimpses of the future.

Cheers

Magnus Reuterdahl

Among the people you see and hear in the movie are Carlo Petrini, Oscar Farinetti, Joe Bastianich, Elio Altare, Chiara Boschis, Marc de Grazia, Giorgio Rivetti, Roberto Voerzio, Lorenzo Accomasso, Silvia Altare, Beppe Caviola, Alessandro e Bruno Ceretto, Giampiero Cereda, Giancarlo Gariglio, David Berry Green, Bartolo Mascarello, Marta e Beppe Rinaldi, Davide Rosso and Maggiore Vacchetto.

Categories: Cultural history, documentry, Italy, red wine, video, White wine, wine, wine blog | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Interviewed by Wine Meridian

About a week ago I was interviewed in the on-line magazine Wine Meridian, the it was published in Italian, now they published an English version.

To read the article click the picture

To read the article click the picture

Magnus Reuterdahl

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Can you do wine in Sweden? Yes we can!

When I talk about Swedish wine I mean wine made from grapes grown in vineyards in Sweden. There are also a few producers that do grow vines in greenhouses and then there are some wineries that make wine from grape juice purchased from other countries. Among the latter there are several that produce cheap bag-in-box wines, but there are also some that are more ambitious for example Högberga Vinfabrik AB (wine factory) at Lidingö in Stockholm.

Villa Mathilda vineyard, Arild, Scania, Sweden

Villa Mathilda vineyard, Arild, Scania, Sweden

EU wine legislation is based on the principle that each country adopts rules for wine classification adapted to protected designations of origin and quality levels. Sweden has not introduced any classification rules, therefore, the Swedish wines can only be sold as table wine.

Today there are about 200-250 growers, of whom about 40 works commercially, here is a list with most of them. There is at least 30-50 hectares of vineyards in Sweden, some says that they are closer to 100, where of about 20-30 hectares are commercial. Most of the vineyards are situated in the southern parts of Sweden, in Scania and on the islands Öland and Gotland in the Baltic Sea. But there are also growers in Halland, Västergötland, Östergötland and Sörmland.

Last year I visited one of these wineries, Villa Mathilda. It is situated on the Kulla Peninsula at Arild, just north of Höganäs in Scania. The winery was founded in 2006 and is run by Marie-Louise and Carl-Magnus Hedin, the name of the winery comes from Marie-Louise grandmother Mathilda. The first harvest was brought in 2010, the same year they produced thier first wine.

Carl-Magnus Hedin of Villa Mathilda

Carl-Magnus Hedin of Villa Mathilda

As I am about to taste one of their 2013 vintage wines I contacted Carl-Magnus Hedin of Villa Mathilda and asked a few questions about the vineyard, the winery and the 2013 vintage.

The vineyard consists of a total of 1000 vines, where they grow solaris and siegerrebe. The soil is clay mixed with a sandy moraine on top of bedrock with some sandstone and shale. During a good year they do thier harvested in late September and in tougher years in October. 2012 was a tough year and they harvested October 3-10th. Last years harvest was slightly earlier, on September 27-28th they harvested the sigerrebe and on October 3-4th they harvested the solaris.

2013 was the best year so far for Villa Mathilda, then again 2012 was one of the most difficult. From the 1000 vines they only got 150 kg of grapes in 2012, in 2013 they got 850 kg. In bottles this means about 700 (50 cl) in 2013.

Carl-Magnus Hedin told me that they try to raise the bar every year, but they also like to experiment a bit. This year they worked a lot harder in the vineyard during the winter and during harvest they saved some grapes to try a late harvest. While the work in the vineyard has done wonders the late harvest didn’t do much for the grapes. Over the years thay have alos tried different types of yeast.

Marie Louise Hedin in the winery at Villa Mathilda

Marie Louise Hedin in the winery at Villa Mathilda

At Villa Mathilda all grapes are destemmed before they are pressed. They pressed with a hydro-press, using low pressure, the wine is unfiltered and they use a selected German yeast that rewards a slow fermentation at temperatures around 12-15 ° Celsius. They also did some changes in the vinification. In 2012 the wine was macerated for about 1 day and for the 2013 the wine has been on sur lie for a longer time and whilst they did battonage. The fermentation is stopped by cold temperature, but they do use some sulfur, maximum 50 milligrams, if needed.

When I visited them last year I got to try their 2012 vintage. 2012 was a difficult year and you could taste that in the wines. The Solaris 2012 was a bit unbalanced with a high, a bit sharp acidity that tended to take over. It was the first year for their siegerrebe, a wine that gave a more aromatic and full-bodied impression and had some nice aromatics. A wine that flirts with Gewurtztraminer and a dry zibbio (muscat), last year this worked better than the solaris.

A few words about the grapes

Solaris is a grape that is a crossing of Merzling (which in turn is a cross of Seyve-Villard, Riesling and Pinot Gris) and the grape Gm 6493, which is a cross of Zarya Severa and Muscat Ottonel (in some texts it says that is a a crossing of Saperavi severny and muscat ottonel). Solaris is a vitis vinifera grape, but is sometimes described as a hybrid grape due to its many different parents. Solaris is perhaps the most common grape in Sweden right now, at least for white wines, the grape gives wines with high acidity and lightly floral aromatic appropriations that to some extent resembles sauvignon blanc.

Solaris

Solaris

Siegerrebe is also a vitis vinifera grape, a cross of Madeleine Angevine and Gewurtztraminer. The only one I’ve tasted is the Villa Mathilda 2012 so my references are rather thin: this was flowery, aromatic with hints of citrus (many others describe grapefruit in wines made by siegerrebe) and some elderberries. It had significantly lower acidity, more fruit sweetness and more body than the solaris grape wines I’ve tried. The wine reminds me most of Gewürztraminer or a dry muscat/zibbibo wine.

Siegerrebe

Siegerrebe

Carl-Magnus Hedin tells me that one of the pleasant suprises this year is the siegerrebe, it does so well. That hasn’t always been the case but now they learned how to work with it. A few years ago they were on the verge of replacing it – they didn’t – thankfully.

Today’s wine is a blend of these two grapes; Villa Mathilda cuvée 2013. They wanted to play withe acidity of the solaris and the slightly sweeter and richer features of the siegerrebe.The blend is 2/3 solaris and 1/3 sigerrebe, the alcohol is 13 vol % the acidity is 7,5 g/l.

Villa Mathilda cuvée 2013

Villa Mathilda Cuvee 2013 (600x518)

This wine is fresh, spicy and clearly aromatic with hints of fennel and wet stone. There is a nice sweetness with hints of dried flowers and elderberry, a hint of citrus and some tropical fruit. It is well balanced with a medium body and fairly long spicy aftertaste. It is fresh, flavorful, austere with some complexity. It is a really nice wine that would perhaps best be compare with a dry zibbibo (ie Muscat di Alexandria) with hints towards scheurebe, pinot gris and gewürzttraminer.

I would pair this wine with seafood, Asian food that does not have too much heat or cheese.

I asked Carl-Magnus Hedin about the current vintage, he says it looks really good. They are a few weeks ahead of 2013 that was really good, they plan to do the harvest during the las week of September and the vintage has great possibilities to be as good as 2013 or better. This might not only be due to the vintage in itself but they have also continued to try to become better in thier work in the vineyard and the winery.

Villa Mathilda kork (600x349)

I look forward to 2014 and many more vintages – if you want to taste a good example of Swedish wine – Villa Mathilda is very good way to go – and even better they are #winelover-s! If you want to taste it about 10 local resturants have it and a really good resturant in Gothenburg: Sjömagasinet.

This is a verion of an article for DinVinguide.se

Magnus Reuterdahl

Categories: Sweden, wine, wine blog | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

A Swedish crayfish party my way

I’m currently participating in a recipie contest – on the line is a trip to Paris and a trip to Chlie. Sponsor is the chilean producer Cono Sur. The idea is to take one of two wines : Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenere or Cono Sur Bicicleta Gewürztraminer – I choose the latter.

Cono Sur bicicleta Gewürztraminer 2013

My idea was to take something seasonal, something Swedish and do a spin on it. In Sweden we have crayfish parties during the later parts of summer and early parts autom. This includes large numbers of crayfish boild in dill, and downed with hugh amounts of alchohol. This really isn’t my cup of tea. I want wine and I want proper food, not saying that crayfish isn’t proper food but I want them in a dish – and of course wine.

My idea was to incorporate the crayfish and create a dish I would like to eat and this was it!


Mat 2 (600x399)

Crab mix served on grilled sourdough bread served with an Asian sauce and boild yellow beets and lightly pickled white turnip (purple top white globe) and cray fish boild in dill

(for 2 people)

Lightly pickled white turnip (purple top white globe)

Slice two white turnips as thin as possible, slice ½ a red pepper finely, slice 2-3 spring onions. Put everything in a bowl, pour in 5-6 tablespoons of rice vinegar, put in 1/3 part pot of chopped fresh coriander (cilantro), add the limezest from ½ lime, the juice of ½ lime and 1-2 tbsp of sugar + a dash of mirin. Let stand cold for 2-3 hours. Stir a few times during the time of taste before serving.

majrova (600x351)

Asian sauce

Pour 0.5 dl of asian fish sauce, 1.5 dl water, 1 teaspoon of vinegar (24%) and 0.5 tablespoons of sugar in a pan and boil it. Cool it of to ca 8 dgrs. Before serving, chop ½ red pepper frui, and one clove of garlic and then stir this into the sauce.

sås (600x481)

Boiled yellow beets

Wash 6 yellow beets thoroughly. Put them in a pan, fill with water so they are covered, pour in the juice of half a lemon, a bay leaf, a crushed clove of garlic and a knob of butter. Bring to the boil, lower the heat so that they cook at medium temperature under a lid – cook for about 30-35 minutes. Peel them while they are hot and slice them. Add them up on the plate and sprinkle some salt on.

Gulbetor (600x399)

The crab mix

1 boiled crab (make sure it is a female so you get some roe). Remove the crab meat and roe and place in a bowl. Dice an avocado, finely chop about 1/3 part pot with fresh dill, 1/3 part pot of fresh coriander (cilantro), 1/3 part pot of fresh thyme and a clove of garlic (finely chopped). Add the juice of half a lime and the zest from one lime and 1-2 tsp tiglio honey. Mix together, season with salt and a little black pepper.

Krabba kräftor (600x399)

Toast a slice of bread, we used a sourdough bread. Put the the crab mix on the bread and serve with the yellow beets and turnip and one or two crayfishes. Pour a few tablespoons of the Asian sauce over the crab mix just before serving.

mat 1 (600x399)

This is just summer food on a hot day or at the crayfish party, a great combination of flavors with lots of herbs, crabs and crayfish and some asian flavours and the sweetnes of the beets and acidity of the turnips marries nicely with a aromatic wine.

Cheers – if this sounds good or decent try it and/or help me out and vote for it here . though this is only possible if you are in Sweden (Just find my name – klick rösta på detta recept and go on)!

Magnus Reuterdahl

Categories: food, Recipe, Sweden, wine, wine blog | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Today I was interviewed in the online wine magazine Wine Meridian

Today I am in the Italian wine press on Italian wines from  a Scandinavian perspective in the online publication Wine Meridian, who interviewed me a while ago. The article is in Italian, but an English version will  appear in a few days – check it out here: 

http://www.winemeridian.com/news_it/i_social_per_superare_la_barriera_del_monopolio_422.html

wine-meridian-il-primo-web-magazine-che-supporta-il-vino-nel-mondo

Magnus Reuterdahl

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Me on the editorial board of DinVinGuide.se

From today I am part of the the editorial board of DinVinGuide.se (YourWineGuide.se) – a Swedish on-line wine publication. This publication is mainly published in Swedish but there is a transalation tool, it works decently but not perfectly. If you have an answer please send a mail or leave a comment here.

Among the the other guys and girls on the editor board and amongs the contributors are a great bunch of wine, booze, beer and food writers – i f you want to get hold of them just do – they are great:

  • Fredrik Schelin – wine
  • Anders Levander – wine
  • Sofia Ander – wine
  • Karoline Nordenfors – food and booze
  • Anette Rosvall – food and wine
  • Jerry Lindahl – beer, booze, whisky etc
  • Jessica Denning – wine
  • Maja Berthas – wine
  • Gunnar Skoglund – wine
  • Raphael Cameron – photo and wine

A great bunch! Check us out here; http://www.dinvinguide.se/

Categories: Sweden, wine, wine blog | Leave a comment

Bardolino in retrospect on #winelover

You’ve might have noticed that we started up a #winelover website a while ago: winelover.co

winelover

Today we put up a new post on my trip to Bardolino earlier this year, sometimes its nice to do retrospects; Read it on #winelover

Anteprima Chiaretto bardolino (1524x2000)

While there check out the website and help us with ideas on how we can best utilize it or make it better. Write a comment on the website, via the facebook group #winelover or through twitter – do not forget the #winelover.

Magnus Reuterdahl

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Turbiana variations – Lugana Addio (Good bye Lugana) … for now

Music: De Curtis | Lugana Addio

Tower of San Martino dei battaglia

Tower of San Martino dei battaglia

There is an old Swedish saying that goes something like this: It’s always good to be away, but great to come home. About a week ago I returned from a great trip to Lugana, Italy. These trips tends to be filled with new experiences, meetings, flavors and facts – so full that you need a few days to relax and let it all sink in. And there starts the next step of the trip down memory lane. Many of these can be found already on facebook, instagram and twitter – just follow the hashtags #lugana and #winelover.

This is a first (or rather second – I did one in Swedish yesternight) attempt on summarize some of the impressions that lingers in my mind. Let’s start with a quick sum up: So damn good! That is my lasting impression. Turbiana variations – one grape, white wines, grown in clay, ca 1200 hectares of vineyards – still lots of variation. Acidity, minerality , elegance, ageing potential are a few key words. I am a #turbianalover I am!

It’s good to be home but I want to go back… soon!

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amforaOne can divide the Lugana in many different ways: Small producers vs. large producers, producers that grow and make wine in Lugana vs. producers who buy grapes and produces outside Lugana, producers that just do Lugana wine vs producers who also are big in other areas such as Bardolino, Valpolicella , Marche etc.

Large, small, inside Lugana, outside of Lugana , traditional, experimental , it doesn’t really matter – the wines are of such high standards  that basically no one lets you down, ie the bottom level is really high – then there are those that are more fun than others, mainly due to a matter of taste.

There are those who experiment with thier wines but there are no bio-dynamic wines or natural wines. But most avoid herbicides and pesticidesbut. Among the experimentations going on are the use of concrete amphoras, organic farming, oxidation, cru wines, pas dosé (zero- dosage) sparkling wine and so on. So who knows maybe we’ll see a bio-dynamic or natural Lugana wine soon enough…

The one stretching the limits the furthest is probably Pasini with thier Busocaldo, an intense wine with exotic fruits, a nutty flavor with hints of hazelnut and almond, a deep pronounced minerality and lots of character. Find it buy it, love it!

Paolo Pasini Busacaldo

Paolo Pasini of Busacaldo

Then again Lugana shows that you don’t have to be experimental to do great things, there are several great producers, big and small. To get a feel for Lugana a good starting point is Cà dei Frati or Tenuta Roveglia and Zenato. For sparkeling CàMaiol is good starting point. As they are big brands they’re likely to be available in many places and they do good stuff. After you’re hooked I would recommend a few om my personal favorites with includes Pasini, Cascina Maddalena, Azienda Agricola Fraccaroli, Selva Capuzza, Perla del Garda and Olivivi… (I probably forgot a few – so I might have to update)

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In Lugana there is one grape to know – Turbiana (formerly known as Trebbiano di Lugana). To be labeled Lugana wine it  must contain at least 90% turbiana, but basically they all stated that they use more or less 100% turbiana. There are around 100 winemakers in Lugana, and a few more growers, add to this about another 70 or so making Lugana wine on bought grapes outside Lugana. No new producers outside Lugana can do Lugana wines, but those who have done it for a long time have the right to continue to do so, but the grapes must be grown in Lugana. Interesting to note is that there are no cooperatives. The Lugana is about 1200 hectare viticulture, 2-300 acres is threatened as the state wants to build a new railway straight through the area. Read more about that in Elisabetta Tosi’s article: Stop that train! Save Lugana wine!

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Most wine is made to be sold young, most of them are probably opened the same year. Most wines are made in stainless steel and a lesser amount are made in oak barrels, Riserva. Different styles, great wines. About 50 % goes to export.

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Lugana wine is also known to be wine that can be aged for a long time and do so well. We got to try a lot of older vintages and it is evident that the wines do age well. It was also evident that many of the older bottles were not made ​​to be stored. Many of them were oxidized, faulty or corked but those that had survived were amazing. We had great wines from the 70’s, from the 80’s and the 90’s. This shows the potential of Lugana if aged and today you treat the bottles in a completely different way than you did back in the days. They are stored better, they use better corks and some do age them to sell them – a good move. One of these is Cà dei Frati who has a really good 2007 in stores now.

Music from one of our hosts, Luca Formentini of Selva Capuzza, here in one of his music projects: Tavole di Flos with Stefano Castagna.

Everything is wine on these trips, it’s also food, culture, landscape and friends, both new and old ones, #winelover-s, bloggers and journalists. The landscape is beautiful at times adorable beautifully. Lugana is at the southern end of Lake Garda, the landscape is flat and the soil is clay, but you can see the mountains towering to the north and even though it’s hot there are usually cool breezes.

I ‘m already longing back ……

Magnus Reuterdahl

Disclosure: I travelled to the region as a guest of the Consorzio Tutela di Lugana with Fermenti Digitali at the Lugana DOC wine blogger tour 2014.

Read more posts from other participants:

Simon Woolf

Luiz Alberto – the Wine Hub

Categories: wine, wine blog | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

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