Interesting Austrian stuff

Today I got a few samples via Swedish internet shop Handlavin.se from Alexander Koppitsch, not to be confused with weingut Koppitsch. Alexander Koppitsch is a family winery, making bio-dynanic wine. They have six hectares of vineyards on the slopes of Lake Neusiedler in Burgenland, Austria.

They make two series of wines called superior and classic. Today I tasted the Chardonnay and Syrah Neuburg from 2011, from the superior-series. I also tasted a rosé – barrel sample – if I understand correctly this is a new wine and I don’t know what series it will belong to.

Koppitsch Neuberg 2011 2

When I first saw the labels my first thought was new world wines – as my mind connected with americana style tattooes. The wine maker says that this is a homage to Austrian wine labels from the 50- and 60s when it was usual to include swallows on the labels. The taste of the wine is not new world then again it’s not typical Austria either. My fav of the day is Chardonnay Neuberg 2011.

Koppitsch Chardonnay Neuberg 2011

The wine has a prominent acidity and a wonderful purity with a lot of underlying fruit. Here are hints of citrus fruit, both green tart apples as well as yellow winter apples, a touch of peach and a nice little spicy finish that reminds of the white pepper notes in a Grüner Veltliner. The wine has a complexity and develops nicely in the mouth, the acid is relatively high and I would love to taste this with food, the underlying fruit flavors make me want more. The oak barrels notes are nicely integrated, they are there, creating a neat structure, but they do not take over. There’s a feel of barren earth, chill winds, and hint of rock and wild herbs.

It’s no crowd pleaser but I love it – the style is nearer a chablis than an Austria wine but with a difference in the spiciness. It is personal, elegant and fun!

Koppitsch Syrah Neuberg 2011

Next on in the glas is Syrah Neuberg 2011.

The aroma is a little shy. It has some floral notes with hints of warm fruit, from underneath comes some toffee and a nice herbal tone.

The style of the wine is cool, it’s floral, some stems, soft silky fruit and fine tannins. There are blue and red berries, a lovely acidity and a nice minerality. The finish is a bit spicy and the minerals are salty. It’s elegant, concise but somewhat young – I would put this in the cellar for a few years and enjoy in the future. Very good!

The last on is the Rosé – as this is a barrel sample and not a finished wine I will not speak much about it but just make a few notes for future reference:

The color is pink, and now I mean pink, the scent is rhubarb cream, a beautiful tartness mixed with sweetness with just a hint of fresh herbs the background.

The wines is dry – almost crunchy, very fresh and has a good acidity. There are lots of rhubarb and citrus fruits and a slight spiciness in the finish. It’s not nearly as sweet as the smell indicated, which is good. A rather odd, but fun, rosé that should work well for desserts or as a welcome drink. It shows promise!

Common to all three wines is the acidity and minerality, which means that they can come across as a bit sharp, but this is what I particularly like about them. They have an elegance that meets the acids, they have storage potential (not the rosé) and lots of personality. It will be fun to follow them into the future!

Magnus Reuterdahl

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